Bliss in Mozambique

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Gero Lilleike about to explore the sea bed. Photo: Gero Lilleike

Mozambique is one of those countries I’ve always wanted to visit. It’s close to home and I have only heard good things about the waves, people and the food. Wait no more little boy, luck is on your side. Working as a motoring journalist (Cars.co.za) often takes you to places that you would never have visited and the White Pearl Resort at Ponta Mamoli is one of those places.

Ponta Mamoli is situated on Mozambique’s southern coast, only 25 km from the South African border post at Kosi Bay. That’s not far, but getting there can be tricky if you aren’t in a 4×4 and familiar with the route. That said, you need a capable car and the new Toyota Hilux was our chariot to paradise.

As soon as we crossed the border, tar turned to sand and after about 40 minutes of bouncing around in the dirt, we arrived. The White Pearl Resort is a luxury beach resort, so all you have to do is show up and relax. It’s spectacular! Private units are nestled amongst the lush subtropical vegetation, all with dream views of the ocean. Needless to say, each unit has its own private pool, an outdoor shower and if you need anything at all, your personal butler is never too far away. What more could you want?

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The units at the White Pearl Resort are luxurious. Photo: Gero Lilleike

We only had two nights at the White Pearl and there was nothing else to do but make the most of it. There’s a diving centre on site if diving is your thing, and there are other activities too such as ocean safaris, horse riding, kayaking, snorkelling and surfing. We did all of them, almost…

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Sea kayaking is a must-do activity at the White Pearl Resort. Photo: MM

One thing you can be sure of is that the food is divine, whether it be breakfast, lunch or dinner. Expect familiar dishes such as delicious Eggs Benedict or indulge in succulent Mozambican-style piri piri chicken. The White Pearl also has a well-stocked beach bar to take the edge off the humid weather and to keep you liquored up all day long. When at the White Pearl, call the barmen over and order an R&R, a refreshing fusion of locally made Rhum Tipo Tinto and Sparberry soda. Obrigado!

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The fruits of the White Pearl Resort. Photo: Gero Lilleike

The coastline at Ponta Mamoli is rich in ocean wildlife. Between the months of November and February each year, Loggerhead and Leatherback turtles come ashore to lay their eggs. These creatures of the deep are under constant threat from humans and both species are listed as endangered. As a result, the White Pearl Resort, along with the Southern Mozambique Marine Turtle Nesting Monitoring, Tagging and Conservation Programme, are actively involved in conservation efforts to ensure the future of these peaceful sea creatures. The White Pearl offers guided Turtle Walks along the coastline to educate people about the plight of turtles and it’s highly recommended. If you are lucky, you might just witness a turtle laying its eggs, something that’s increasingly rare.

 

LocalShop

The locals are super friendly, support them! Photo: Gero Lilleike

 

The one thing that struck me about Mozambique, apart from the gorgeous locations and the food, is the people. Every local I spoke to and interacted with had a big smile on their face and friendliness was the order of the day. That’s pretty rare too by South African standards. Many of the locals are poor but choose to be happy and friendly. That’s refreshing and there’s a lesson in that for all of us.

I will return…

For more information about the the White Pearl Resort, visit their website at www.whitepearlresorts.com/

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The beach at White Pearl Resort. Photo: Gero Lilleike

 

 

 

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The Great White Shark Debate

Words and Photographs by Gero Lilleike

I don’t have to look far to see the great clash between man and nature taking place before my very own eyes. As I look over the notorious False Bay in Muizenberg, Cape Town, South Africa, I see hundreds of sea gulls diving for fish, the Yellowtail have arrived. On the shore, trek net fishermen prepare their nets in hope of a big catch.

Over recent weeks, the presence of trek net fisherman near the famous ‘Surfers Corner’ in Muizenberg has sparked anger and concern over the safety of the many bathers and surfers who frequent this popular surfing beach. Cape Town and False Bay in particular is well known for the presence of the Great White shark, Carcharodon Carcharias, and public safety has been on the agenda for several years now. Two fatal shark attacks and one non-fatal attack have occurred in False Bay in the last ten years and thousands of shark sightings have been recorded with the help of the Shark Spotters Programme.

In November 2004, Tyna Webb (77) went for an early morning swim at Fish Hoek beach. Minutes later she was attacked repeatedly by a massive Great White shark. Tyna’s swimming cap was all that remained. In January 2010, Lloyd Skinner (37) was also swimming at Fish Hoek beach when he too was attacked by a Great White and never seen again. Then, in September 2011, Michael Cohen (42) survived a Great White attack at Fish Hoek beach with the shark biting off his right leg above the knee and part of his left leg below the knee. No further attacks have occurred since.

The Shark Spotters Programme has proven to be hugely successful since its inception in 2004, alerting beach goers to potential shark threats and gathering valuable information regarding the presence of Great White sharks in False Bay. The Shark Spotters Programme is the primary preventative measure adopted by the City of Cape Town to avoid further attacks in False Bay and Cape Town in general, but further intervention may be on the cards.

An article published in the April issue of The Big Issue, a general interest magazine, outlines the possibility of exclusion nets being adopted on a trial basis in Fish Hoek. The exclusion nets were considered by the City of Cape Town in 2006 but were rejected as it was believed that sea conditions in Fish Hoek would destroy the nets, and worse, sea life would become entangled in them. The use of exclusion nets are now being reconsidered but financing, approval and implementation may or may not prevent the exclusion nets from becoming a reality.

More importantly, the environmental impact of exclusion nets on the fragile marine environment in False Bay and Fish Hoek in particular will remain unknown until the nets are implemented. The exclusion nets, similar to the nets used by trek net fisherman, are thought to be more environmentally friendly because the holes in the net are much smaller when compared to the deadly gill nets used in Kwa-Zulu Natal, South Africa.

Any net, in my opinion, will threaten marine life, as demonstrated when a 4.3 meter female Great White shark got entangled in the nets of whelk fisherman off Fish Hoek beach on March 11 2012 and sadly died as a result. It’s thought that between 30 and 70 million sharks die by the hand of man every year compared to the 75 odd shark attacks reported worldwide in 2011. We, as humans pose a far greater threat to sharks and to ourselves than sharks do to us, so are exclusion nets even necessary? Where do we draw the line between public safety and conservation? Exclusion nets may offer beach goers relative safety from sharks, but are exclusion nets an environmentally viable option to preserve marine life going forward into the future?

The debate continues…

Fish Hoek beach, Cape Town, South Africa

Save our Oceans

Words and Photographs by Gero Lilleike

For as long as I can remember, the sea has always fascinated me. The vastness of its mysteries is perplexing, impossible to fathom in a lifetime. The beauty that abounds in our oceans is incredible and surfing has given me a unique opportunity to witness the ocean in all its majesty and has changed my life in ways I cannot explain in words.

Many of my greatest memories originated from the sea. One of them will be forever etched in my mind. On a bright, sunny morning in the Transkei, on the east coast of South Africa, we decided to go surf. We arrived at the surf spot and were welcomed by perfect waves rolling into the small bay. With not a soul in sight, we paddled out and caught a few waves, having the time of our lives. It wasn’t long before our friends from the deep showed up to teach us how to surf in style. Five or six Bottlenose Dolphins joined us in the surf that day. We were out there for at least two hours and in that time the dolphins never left us. The experience was surreal and being in the water with those dolphins made me so incredibly happy to be alive. I will never forget that day.

It’s those moments, along with many others, that make you realise just how precious and sacred our oceans are. The fact that humankind is destroying our oceans in so many ways saddens me beyond belief. Every beach I have ever walked on has been riddled with rubbish, the evidence of our sick existence. All over the world we hear stories of atrocities inflicted on our oceans by the hand of man and those atrocities are happening right now. At the same time, many people across the world are doing magnificent work to save our oceans, and that fight must continue forever.


Every single person can do their bit to save our oceans, whether it be through recycling, education, spreading awareness or simply picking up a bottle on the beach, it all counts. In the spirit of saving our oceans, I have written a poem.

The Sea

In the darkness and the deep,
Where the mother yearns,
Do forgotten secrets sleep,
In love, her heart burns.

In the distant light to be,
With wind she must dance,
Her treasures for all to see,
In waves, lies her trance.

On the shore we stand in awe,
Her bosom full of joy,
Through her eyes we see our flaws,
Her soul, we destroy.

No matter what she will be,
Forever, she is our sea.

This article was published on www.72andrising.com , go check it out.

Orca Foundation

Orca Foundation

Conservation always begins with people and I have had the pleasure of collaborating with great people at the The Orca Foundation in Plettenberg Bay to share valuable information but also to raise awareness around conservation whether it be on land or in the sea. This is an ongoing mission and there is a lot more to come, so keep your eyes peeled. For now, here is some valuable information about the Orca Foundation.

You protect that which you love. If you have an understanding about the environment, you will learn to love it, if you love it, you will protect it. This is the motto of the Orca Foundation, a private initiative supported by the community of Plettenberg Bay and ensuring the sustained utilisation of marine and coastal resources through improved management, research and education. The conservation and protection of our environment starts with the awareness of issues that are affecting our environment. Only once we are aware can we actively participate in preserving our environment in meaningful and sustainable ways.

Founded by Ocean Blue Adventures, The Orca Foundation is a volunteer community committed to marine conservation in South Africa and its success depends on the dedicated willingness of others to further the volunteer and conservation ethics and pave the way for a better future. The Orca Foundation is involved in many ongoing research, conservation and education initiatives in the Plettenberg Bay area. I will be covering these initiatives in more detail in the weeks ahead, but for now take the time to visit the Orca Foundation website at http://www.orcafoundation.co.za and learn more about the awesome work they are doing to save our oceans.

Year Of Our Ocean, YOOO can make a difference. Peace.

The Sunday Monkey Bird Walk

Words and pictures by Gero Lilleike

Squirell Monkey

It was mid morning and I had to force myself not to sleep anymore, hard work on a Sunday. I looked out my window and another great day lay before me. I had no plan for the day but plenty of time to think about it. A cup of coffee later and I was onto something. I felt like taking a walk, with shoes on. Another cup of coffee down the hatch and I decided to take a walk, with shoes on, to see some animals.

I thought it would be the perfect day to visit Monkeyland and Birds of Eden in The Crags, Plettenberg Bay, South Africa. I arrived at the gates of Monkeyland where a friendly monkey ushered me to the reception area where I paid a very special price of R200 to visit both sites. A bargain some might say. The monkey behind the till gladly took my money and directed me to the waiting area where Neil, the monkey guide, was to start the monkey tour. In the near distance of the forest, I could hear my fellow primates swearing at each other, quite a freaky racket to bear witness to, but amusing nonetheless.

Within a few minutes, a troop of monkey tourists gathered and Neil, the monkey guide, arrived to start the hour-long monkey tour. Welcome to Monkeyland, the world’s first multi-species free roaming primate sanctuary. The main focus of Monkeyland and Birds of Eden, is to rehabilitate and release previously caged monkeys, apes, lemurs and birds into a free-roaming environment, some of which originating from many parts of the world.

Monkey feeding

The monkey tour began and we soon reached the first feeding point, an elevated tray laden with fresh fruit. Within seconds all kinds of monkeys, apes and lemurs were making their way from the canopy above to feed on the fruit buffet below. It was a primate feeding frenzy like I have never seen before. I was very tempted to join in the feast but resisted for obvious reasons. In the distance, I could hear my primate friends swearing at each other again. I chuckled to myself as monkey chaos ensued around me. It was a remarkable moment in time and a remarkably sad one too.

We continued with the monkey tour, spotting the odd Vervet here and a Lemur there and then the forest fell quiet, not a sound to be heard. Neil, our monkey guide, was indecisive as to what route to take next. He then shared some interesting facts about monkeys, answered some monkey questions and soon we were back on the monkey trail. It wasn’t long before a bridge lay before us, suspended in the canopy, offering a scenic view of the beautiful forest surrounding us. We crossed it carefully and upon reaching the other side, the monkey tour ended and Monkeyland was but a fleeting monkey memory.

Birds of Eden

Birds of Eden was next on my hit list. I have never been an avid birder but I saw the value in the experience. In the car park, I looked upon this mammoth bird sanctuary before me and thoughts of Jurassic Park filled my monkey brain. I proceeded to enter Birds of Eden, but with caution, as a good monkey should. In the first five minutes, a big white Cockatoo flew straight towards my head, I ducked just in time and it perched right beside me to feed on some seed. That Cockatoo freaked me out.

Welcome to Birds of Eden, a beautiful place indeed. I decided to really proceed with caution now. There were birds flying everywhere, it felt like every bird was after me as I entered their maze. I had to watch my back, often. This was a birder’s paradise, a surreal experience, really amazing. About half an hour into my walk, a large Blue and Gold Mawcaw got sight of me and flew swiftly towards me and tried to perch on my shoulder, I quickly ducked, denying it the pleasure. These birds were really freaking me out now. I laughed out loud and taunted them to leave me alone.

I looked up and saw my friend, a large male Chacma Baboon patrolling the top of the sanctuary, it was defending me, obviously. I walked a little faster, with the end of my Jurassic Park experience almost in sight. With a sigh of relief, I made it, I was free again. Free?

I took a moment to ponder on my day. Although the experience of Monkeyland and Birds of Eden was fun and informative, a deeper concern was pecking at my monkey brain. Why are these sanctuaries here, I asked myself? I thought about it and soon my monkey brain came up with the answer. We live in a sick and twisted society. Humans cage wild animals as pets and these animals lose their ability to survive in the wild. So, we build sanctuaries for them, to save them from doom, where they spend the rest of their lives slowly re-learning what they already knew before they met us, how to be wild… For all these animals, these sanctuaries and all those around the world, at least provide a taste of the freedom they once knew. As human beings, it’s the least we can do for them, for we live in cages of our own and freedom we know not.

I got into my car and drove away and in a field nearby I saw my friends again, a troop of foraging baboons. I waved goodbye. They smiled and waved hello. Finally, it dawned on me. I’m just a monkey too and so are you.

If you ever happen to be driving through The Crags or if you are on holiday in Plettenberg Bay and are in need of some rehabilitation from the outside world, stop over at Monkeyland and Birds of Eden and support them, for they are doing a sterling job for the conservation of our beautiful wildlife. It’s a great experience your monkey brain won’t forget.

For more information, contact +27 (044) 534 8906 or visit their websites at http://www.monkeyland.co.za / http://www.birdsofeden.co.za