Deep in a lucid dream, I cast my line into the flow of a river. With a mighty splash, a large Tigerfish bearing sharp teeth thrashed high into the air in a silver flash.
In an instant, the action was over and my eyes were thrust open wide in a dark, cold night.
It was 3:30 a.m. and this dream would soon become reality.
I had a flight to catch and I was due to rendezvous with renowned South African fish artist and avid fly fisherman, Gavin Erwin. Our destination was the Ichingo Chobe River Lodge in Namibia and our sole mission was to catch as many Tigerfish as we possibly could while also targeting other fish found in the Chobe River, such as a Three-Spotted Tilapia, Nembwe, Catfish and the rare Pink Happy Bream.
I’ve been fly fishing for over 2 decades but my experience level is best described as “average” and as this was my first tiger fishing experience, I was happy to have a pro by my side.
Gavin needs little introduction and apart from creating magnificent fish-inspired artwork, he has hooked into a staggering variety of fish all over South Africa and abroad, including Tigerfish. His experience and knowledge would ultimately prove to be invaluable on this tiger fishing adventure.
After meeting Gavin at the OR Tambo International Airport, we boarded a flight to Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe where we were met with fine weather and the large, happy smile of Orpheus, a local who would take us to the Botswana border.
The Ichingo Chobe River Lodge is situated on Impalila Island in Namibia where the mighty Zambezi and Chobe rivers converge, making this area the only place in the world where 4 countries meet (known as the Kazungula Quadripoint) including Nambia, Botswana, Zambia and Zimbabwe. Further downstream, the Zambezi River plunges into the Zambezi Gorge in spectacular fashion at Victoria Falls, a UNESCO world heritage site.
After border hopping across 2 countries, we finally stepped onto a tender boat moored on the banks of the Chobe River where we met an enthusiastic 37-year-old, Cassius Tebuho, our river guide for the next 5 days.
The Ichingo Chobe River Lodge is situated on the Namibian side of the Chobe River and after an official stamp at the local Namibian immigration office on Impalila Island, Cassius set course for the lodge which is accessible by boat.
It was a splendid day to be on the water. The Chobe River was teeming with birdlife and wildlife. The squawking of thousands of birds filled the air, hippos bathed in the shallows and crocodiles basked in the embrace of the warm afternoon sun. This place is wild!
Cassius whipped the boat around in the rapids with impeccable skill and banked us at the Ichingo Chobe River Lodge. We had arrived!
The lodge manager, 62-year-old Kennedy Ilunga, was there to welcome us with his warmth and laughter. His endearing, larger-than-life personality would become one of the major highlights of this fishing trip.
A total of 8 charming Meru-style tents under large trees overlook the river below but there was no time for sleeping — we had fish to catch! After a quick, delicious lunch, consisting of lamb pie and salad, we were ready to commence our Tigerfish hunt in earnest.
Hunting Tigerfish on the Chobe River
Armed with both fly fishing tackle and conventional tackle, Cassius fired up the boat and we set off upstream in search of Tigerfish.
On the way, Cassius gave us bad news. Three days before our arrival, a freezing weather system brought strong winds (bad for fishing) and lowered water temperatures. This meant that the Tigerfish were mostly off the bite and fishing was difficult. This was confirmed by other guests at the dinner table that night.
Despite this unfortunate set of circumstances, we were steadfast and resolved to forge ahead with the hunt. The wind was our enemy and with the sun setting fast, we had no choice but to accept defeat, for now…
We sat on the boat with a cold beer in hand and enjoyed a magical, golden sunset on the river.
The next day was warmer but the wind was still not helping our cause.
Cassius grew up on the Chobe River and with a wealth of experience — he had a plan. He took us up the Kasai channel, a narrow body of water that winds northwards towards the Zambezi River and effectively separates Impalila Island from the greater Caprivi strip.
The Kasai channel is a rich fishing ground with reeded banks, secluded bays, deep channels and shallower sand bars with the varying orientation of the channel providing shelter from the wind.
Gavin and I both opted for fly fishing and decided to use Clouser Minnows of varying colours including red/black, purple/black and orange/black combinations in conjunction with a fast sinking line.
It wasn’t long before Gavin opened the tallies with a juvenile Tigerfish and he soon followed up with a slightly larger specimen.
I, on the other hand, was working the water hard without any luck. We fished in the Kasai channel for most of the day, taking advantage of the shelter it provided. Gavin ended off the day with a beautiful 1.8 kg Tigerfish while I returned to Ichingo with no bites to speak of.
After a long day of fishing, Kennedy was awaiting our return. His smile was ear-to-ear and he welcomed us back with a much-needed shot of sherry and some encouragement that conditions would improve. Other fishermen reported poor results for the day, news which soothed my wounded ego.
The Ichingo staff lit a bonfire and we enjoyed a lovely braai and shared fish tales alongside a raging bonfire with the sound of the rushing river filling the night sky. Ichingo really is a fisherman’s dream come true!
With a full day of fishing looming ahead of us, we turned in early to get back on the river in high spirits in the morning.
After loading up with coffee and breakfast, we set off on the hunt, this time with more gusto and confidence than ever before. Cassius positioned the boat in the rapids just upstream from the lodge and we started the day with some excellent drifts. We were still mostly focusing on fly fishing and forging ahead with the seemingly successful Clouser Minnow fly pattern.
Gavin, once again added another sizable Tigerfish to his tally in the rapids while I focussed my concentration on perfecting my technique in the hope of catching my first Tigerfish.
As Gavin caught more fish, my frustration grew.
As a good guide should, Cassius encouraged me to persevere and remain focused on the task at hand.
With the wind coming up once again, Cassius took us further up the Kasai channel. We fished various spots, including shallower banks with steeper drop-offs which proved successful with Gavin “the fish magnet” taking advantage of his winning streak with another two medium-sized Tigerfish landed.
I was now getting desperate.
We also used conventional tackle, such as spoons, spinners and lures in areas where conditions weren’t ideal for fly fishing, such as in heavily congested lily beds in the hope of catching a Nembwe (Yellow Belly Bream) but we sadly didn’t have much success.
Fly fishing, while more technically challenging, was proving to yield the best results for catching Tigerfish on the Chobe River.
Later on in the afternoon, Gavin switched to a floating line and started presenting a Flipper fly on the surface.
Bang!
He was on! Another medium-sized Tigerfish was in the bag. I was losing count but I still needed to get off the mark!
Then, in the orange glow of the setting sun, it happened!
We were fishing a drift at the end of the Kasai channel when a small Tigerfish finally smashed my purple/black Clousser Minnow and with a yelp of happiness, I landed it. I was elated! It was my first Tigerfish and I’d caught it on fly!
We returned to the lodge in good spirits. I gave Kennedy the news of my catch and he flung his hands in the air in praise and celebrated the news in a way that only he can. Vibrant conversations ensued at the dinner table with some large Tigerfish caught during the day.
One of the guests at Ichingo was renowned South African fly fisherman and fly fishing outfitter, Daniel Factor, who was enjoying time on the water with his family. Daniel is no stranger to catching big fish and he hooked into a large 6 kg Tigerfish in the Kasai channel. For Daniel and his family, Ichingo is the best place to catch Tigerfish on the Chobe River.
Experience Impalila Island, the river, the people and wildlife
One of the activities available to Ichingo guests is to visit the nearby Kafubu village, home to the Basubiya Tribe, where an impressive 200-year-old Boabab tree stands in the centre of the village with its gigantic branches reaching into the sky. Sadly though, the local Induna leader passed away during our arrival and the village was in mourning in preparation for the burial ceremony. Our visit to the village was a solemn one and we purchased some handcrafted curios in support of the local community.
It was our last day of fishing and we wasted no time getting back on the river to hunt Tigerfish. Cassius put us on a drift just upstream from Ichingo with the warm morning sun setting the scene for a fantastic day on the river.
Gavin’s line wasn’t in the water for even 10 seconds and a Tigerfish was already thrashing wildly with the Clouser firmly set in its bony toothy jaw. Soon after, I had a small Tigerfish on the line too! What a start to the day!
We were fishing over a rocky shelf when Gavin’s line went tight once more. This time it wasn’t a Tigerfish but instead, Gavin caught a rarely-seen Pink Happy Bream! These beautiful fish are timid and shy and are rarely tempted by a passing fly. Gavin, however, was in luck! Cassius was visibly delighted and even he admitted that it was a long time since he saw a Pink Happy Bream being caught on the Chobe.
With hunger setting in, we returned to Ichingo for lunch and enjoyed a delicious spread of hake, chips and coleslaw. A huge hippo was basking in the sun on the opposite bank and it soon became apparent that it had been in a fight and presumably lost as it had a gaping wound on the side of its head. It appeared to be understandably grumpy.
While we had seen many crocodiles and hippos during our fishing escapades on the Chobe River, we were keen to see more of the wildlife that this region is so well known for!
Kennedy suggested that we go upstream to the Chobe National Park. It was a 40-minute trip by boat and on the way, we spotted both the Zambezi Queen and the Zambezi Princesses glistening in the afternoon sun!
Wildlife abounds in large numbers here and there were no less than 30 elephants enjoying a drink at the water’s edge while a fat 6-metre crocodile lay motionless, watching…
In the shade of a tree, a pride of lions lay in the dust, napping the afternoon away while a troop of baboons yakked in the branches above. Further along the bank, African Buffalo grazed peacefully in the golden light while a bloat of hippos languished in a mud pit on the bank of the river.
Being on the water in a boat offers a unique perspective of the animals and the environment in which they live and a game boat cruise is undoubtedly one of the best ways to view wildlife, primarily because you can get exceptionally close to the animals, making this mode of game viewing ideal for wildlife photographers. Seeing the animals close-up in their natural environment was a fantastic experience on our last afternoon on the Chobe River.
With the sun fast-tracking to the horizon, we had just enough time to cast our lines out one last time. Birds streaked across a deep pastel-red sky and the life energy of the river reached its crescendo as the light of day surrendered to the darkness of the night. We sat in silence, observing, soaking in this special place.
The Chobe River had blessed us with its magic and we were going home with happy hearts and memories that would last a lifetime. This was a dream come true, a fishing adventure to top them all…
Book your dream fishing trip at Ichingo Chobe River Lodge today!